How to Maintain Your Wood Floor

Product life of hardwood flooring relies upon two aspects. The first is your choice in choosing one type of wood structure over another and very significantly the method in which you simply care and maintain the wood. In this particular guide we will clarify the right method to maintain wood flooring along with the two varied construction kinds available for both domestic and commercial properties.
Floor Types - There are 2 types of 'real' wood flooring. Several are better suited in various situations than others. One is called solid wood flooring, whereas the second is called engineered wood flooring.
Solid Wood Flooring - Every floorboard is made of complete solid wood just as Oak. This construction gives the floorboard longer lifespan of around 100 years if cared for in the correct manner. Solid wood will certainly react to changes in climate. In hot conditions the wood would probably expand and in cold conditions the wood will contract. These may lead to gaps in the floor along with expedited wear and tear. Solid wood flooring is not advisable, therefore, in areas that experience climate change like the bathroom, kitchen and possibly a conservatory.
Engineered Wood Flooring - Each and every floorboard is made of three to 4 layers. The top layer is made from solid wood, while the other three are made from syntactic materials. Unlike solid wood flooring, these types of boards can be fitted all over the home or commercial property ; in spite of this, service life does not equivalent that of solid wood flooring.
Your own preference is often based on the location of wherein the floor will be fitted and budget restrictions, as engineered boards has become more affordable due to the lesser usage of solid wood.
Wood Flooring Maintenance - Property or home maintenance professionals are your most secure bet when it pertains to maintaining your commercial flooring. But yet, we understand that most local household would opt for caring by themselves. Here are some of the recommended solutions to use when it pertains to cleaning wood flooring :
Clear the room - It is actually easier, at least from time to time, to clean the surface when it is completely free of any kind of obstacles. When moving objects around such as heavy home furniture, be sure to pick up the item instead of drag it on the wood's surface. Dragging is a guaranteed way to damage the coating of the floorboard.
Hoover or sweep the floor - When making use of either a hoover or a brush you will need to take care not to ruin the wood. When it comes to using a hoover, use a soft extension, not a plastic one. If the hoover goes around by method of wheels, clean these quickly before starting since they might attract particles of dirt that is going to then damage the wood. Whenever using a brush, clean the brush immediately to ensure that its soft hairs really do not include dirt.
Mop the floor - The major mistake and one that has the potential to expedite the longevity of the wood, is using an excessive amount water. There is no reason to soak the floor in water. A damp mop is actually all that is needed.
Add wood cleaner - Each and every few weeks, repeat the above phase, but this time, put dedicated wood cleaner to the mixture. These are wood-friendly formulated liquids which do not include bleach or some other abrasive detergents.
Inspect the coating - Floorboards are coated with a layer of coating designed to provide a basic level of protection. Common material includes oil and a variety of lacquers. With time, this finish will certainly fade due to foot traffic and inappropriate cleaning, so might need topping up around once a year.
Top tip - It is strongly recommended to fit doormats at the entrance and exit of the room. These kinds of cheap mats do best at attracting dirt that would certainly otherwise make its way to the floor.

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How to Fix Scratches on Hardwood Floors

If you do have solid hardwood floors, accumulating scuff marks are inevitable, even if you’re cautious. The majority of scratches are resulting from moving furniture, pets, and also tracking in small rocks from outside. Repairing the look of a scratched hardwood flooring can be relatively easy, based on the severity of the scratch. With a very few simple steps, you might repair and conceal nicks and also scratches in your hardwood, to obtain the longest life out of the flooring.

Method 1. Concealing Shallow Scratches With a Wood Staining Marker

1. Clean the scraped spot. Use a soft cloth dampened with water to gently clean the surface area of the hardwood floor from any excessive dirt and debris.

2. Dampen a rag with a wood stain marker. Try to find a wood stain marker that complements the color of your hardwood floor. Fold over a clean rag or paper towel in squares, so there are some layers to the material. Shake the stain marker before opening up, and dab the point of the marker into a corner area of the folded cloth. Dab the marker around 10-15 times to effectively dampen the cloth with the wood stain.

Stain markers are available in many colors, and can be purchased in home department stores, hardware stores, and paint stores.

3. Rub down the stain into the scratch. Lightly press the cloth onto the solid wood, focusing on the scratched area, and also rub the wood stain into the scrape, following the grain of the wood.
- This application method is most effective ( rather than directly sketching the stain marker over the scratch ), since it allows for a gradual add-on of stain.

• If you apply the marker to draw and fill out the stain directly, you may saturate the scratch with stain, and also end up making the scratch deeper and darker than the surrounding wood. Drawing right onto the scratch like that could make the scratch mark even a lot more obvious.
  

Method 2. Fixing Superficial Scratches

1. Thoroughly clean the scratched area. If the protecting coating of the hardwood floor is damaged, use a soft cloth ( such as a microfiber cloth ) along with a small amount of hardwood floor more clean to remove any contaminants from the damaged area.

- Any and all of the small dust particles has to be removed from the scratched area so that they don’t get preserved in the floor whenever you add sealant.

2. Cleanse off the cleaner. After cleaning the scratched part of the floor, dampen another cloth with water, and wipe down the damaged area to remove the cleanser.

- Allow the scratched area dry before going on.

3. Apply a top coating. Whenever the scratched area is totally dry, use a tiny tipped brush to apply a thin coating of protective finish to the scratched part of the floor. This protective finish may be a sealant, shellac, or some different kind of polyurethane varnish. Preferably, you would use the exact same kind of finish that has already been on the hardwood floor.

- Consult a staff member at your local hardware shop for advice on what kind of finish you could use on the floor.

• If you are an amateur wood worker, or if perhaps your hardwood floor provides a specialty finish ( such as a very high gloss polyurethane finish ), consider working with a professional to repair and also finish the floor.
• Since employing a professional will be more expensive money, it might be least expensive to let scratches accumulate, instead of hiring a company to repair one small scratch.

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Patching injured Wood Floors

Organic ambiance and attractiveness create wood a favorite for floor surfaces. However when the topcoat end wears through, the porous surface area of the wood is available to stains-especially beneath dining area seats, facing a sink along with other high-traffic, high-spill spots. Oil soap and broad cleanser eliminate some spots, particularly when the leak is fresh. However it's not possible to scrub out spots which have soaked into the wood fibers. And sanding only generates a depression in the floor that is more recognizable than the stain. The only choice would be to cut out the stained floorboards and install a new one. We changed some boards from a regular 3/4-in.-thick x 21/4-in.-wide oak-strip floor using a drill, circular saw and sharpened chisel. To figure out the exact width and thickness of the items you'll require, raise a temperature register or threshold and measure the uncovered ends of the floorboards. You will discover hardwood flooring at a small rural millwork shop, lumberyard or floor-covering store.

Getting rid of the Damage

Since tongue-and-groove boards are locked in position, removal involves cutting away the middle of each harmed board. The easiest way would be to bore a 1-in.-dia. hole through each ends of each harmed board. Then use a spherical saw to connect the two openings. Follow these steps to securely make the plunge cuts:

1. Tune the depth of cut to the thickness of the floorboards. Connect the saw and put on eye defense.

2. Pull back the retractable cutting guard with your thumb. After that hold the nose of the baseplate on the floorboard and pick up the rear of the saw.

3. Arrange the blade with the right edge of among the holes. Make sure the cutting tool isn't touching the floor, then simply squeeze the trigger and steadily lower the spinning blade into the board.

4. Hold the saw firmly with both hands and also guide it in a straight line until you finally cut into the right edge of the opening at the opposite end of the board.

5. Shift back to the first hole, arrange the blade with the left edge and trim to the left edge of the second opening. Pry out the middle part with a hammer and chisel. Chop away the remaining edges, being cautious not to damage any environment boards. The "tongue" piece will be nailed constantly in place, so break it out in little pieces. Then pull away the nails with a hammer or securing pliers. The existing floorboards have a tongue and groove milled on every end and along the edges. Cut off the tongue exposed by the board you simply removed so you may slip in the new board.

Fitting Brand new Floorboards

Chop a new period of flooring to match comfortably into the room of the old board. It does not issue what type of saw you choose; just be sure the cuts are entirely square. After cutting off the board to length flip it inverted and uses a chisel to slice off the lower lip of the grooved border. That permits it to fit over the protruding tongue of the adjacent floorboard. Test-fit the brand new piece. If it's slightly lesser than the surrounding floorboards, shim it up with strips of craft papers. Then remove the board and also spread carpenter's glue on the tongues and grooves of the new and old items. Slip the new board into position, protect it with a scrap-wood block and tap into it down with a hammer. Cover the board with polish paper, and then hold it down through the night with heavy books or weights. A substitute for gluing: Simply face-nail the board with 6d finishing nails. Bore pilot openings at a small angle, after that drive in the nails. Tap them below the surface area with a nail collection and fill up the openings with wooden putty. Gently sand the whole board smooth out, however take care not to take away a lot end from surrounding boards. After choosing a suitable stain color by testing on scraps of flooring surfaces, stain the boards to match up the original floor. Allow dry overnight, after that apply 2 coats of distinct polyurethane varnish. In case the old floor is unstained, simply implement the polyurethane.

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